February 2023 – Sustainable Food

Bakers & Hale: Godfrey’s Only Farm-To-Table Fresh Eatery

Shane Witters Hicks | Program Officer
Principia Center for Sustainability | Feb 28, 2023

Driving through the northern reaches of Godfrey, you’d be forgiven for thinking the freshest option is apple slices from McDonald’s. It’s a sea of endless restaurant chains and a seeming dearth of quality, locally-owned establishments. Enter Bakers & Hale – an exciting exception to the fast-food frenzy.

Spacious extended dining area at Bakers & Hale

Opened in 2018, Bakers & Hale is a self-proclaimed farm-to-table restaurant that’s family owned and operated. Chef & Founder Kelsi Baker Walden opened the eatery with support from extended family, who are constantly networking within the community to expand their tasty, local offerings. What they can’t grow in the garden nestled behind the building (which gifts the restaurant with tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, cucumbers, chives, basil, dill, oregano, etc.) they try to source locally. Examples include oyster mushrooms from Missing Meadows Mushrooms (Staunton, IL) in the Vegetable Orzo entrée with goat cheese and fresh herbs, and pork from the Wenneman Meat Company (St. Libory, IL) for the grilled Pork Steak entrée with a BBQ bourbon glaze. If your mouth isn’t watering yet, check out the varied menu items, which range from the loaded brisket nachos, to the Asian chopped salad, to the irresistible gyro bowl.

Flash-Fried Brussels Sprouts – pistachios, feta, and honey-balsamic glaze

Principia College’s Center for Sustainability has been a friend and fan of Kelsi’s since her debut, and during our most recent visit we were more than satisfied with her current offerings. We began with a delectable round of starters. The incredibly addicting flash-fried brussels sprouts had an oh-so-sweet-and-tangy glaze and the well-crisped outer leaves provided a delicate, satisfying texture. The fried pickled vegetables included an assortment of seasonal picks like cucumber and green beans, and the zesty cilantro ranch sauce added creamy balance to the pickled brightness. Everyone agreed that they could easily make a meal out of “starters”!

Veggie Pizza – pesto, seasonal veggies, goat cheese

Entrées with simple names like “Veggie Pizza” should not be overlooked. This particular menu item completely stole the show. Its rich pesto base, paired with a medley of local mixed mushrooms, zucchini, bell peppers, basil, mozzarella, and goat cheese made this a dish bursting with fresh flavor. And the thin yet surprisingly buttery yeast-risen crust more than complemented the creamy toppings with crisp, textural contrast.

Gyro Bowl – beef & lamb, cauliflower rice, feta, tzatziki, kalamata olives

The Gyro Bowl was also a fan favorite. This Mediterranean classic gets a unique twist with cauliflower rice yet delivers comforting, bold flavors with gyro strips made from beef and lamb. It’s served with all the familiar fixings like red onion, tomato, cucumber, kalamata olives, feta, and tzatziki sauce.

Fried Pickled Vegetables – cucumber, green bean, cilantro ranch

The Veggie Orzo and Mushroom & Gouda Burger were also notable members of the feast. We especially enjoyed the tangy goat cheese and selection of herbs in the orzo. And the fried onion rings in the burger provided a satisfying contrast to the thick, juicy patty. These dishes are a perfect example of the abundance of fresh ingredients and variety offered at Bakers & Hale. While the menu certainly has more meat-centered dishes than meatless ones, there are several vegetarian gems and vegan options are available when you ask your server. So don’t be shy!

Event board in the process of being written

While the food is outstanding and more than worth the trip, it would be a mistake to sleep on the social events organized by the Baker family. The establishment is known as a gathering spot for exceptional local musical talent (see full schedule here). In addition, Wednesday bike nights, “All-Wheels Cruise Ins,” and Thursday open mic nights round out the event schedule and keep the establishment a lively and fun community hotspot during weeknights.

Fresh food, friends, family, community, mission-driven purpose… Bakers & Hale has it all and is ready for your solo visit, date night dinner, friend gathering, or private party (in its large, extended dining area). Support local food systems and treat yourself to what’s sure to be a soul-satisfying outing at the restaurant soon!

Maeva’s Coffee: A Workplace & Hangout-Haven

Shane Witters Hicks | Program Officer
Principia Center for Sustainability | Feb 20, 2023

A selection of from-scratch goodies tempts customers in Maeva’s pastry case

The coffeehouse hidden within the old Milton Schoolhouse may be one of Alton’s best-kept secrets. It’s one of those, “if you know, you know” gems for students at Principia College. And once you know, you’ll likely find yourself making repeat latte runs whenever the opportunity presents.

Located in downtown Alton, Maeva’s Coffee can be found after following signs down a winding passageway in the historic schoolhouse. (The meandering journey helps reinforce its perception as a hidden gem.) As you near the entrance, you’ll wander past increasing amounts of potted greenery and art until you emerge into a warmly lit and tastefully decorated cafe room. Maeva’s instantly gives off comforting, friendly vibes. This is reinforced by grinning baristas who will quickly greet you and a well-stocked pastry case.

Verdant plant-life just outside the Maeva’s café room

In an age of coffee chains that minimize labor and use cheap ingredients to maximize profits, Maeva’s is a refreshing oasis in a veritable desert of quality cafes. Just about everything you can purchase is made from scratch or requires some loving preparation by the team. In the fall, a sign describing the pumpkin spice latte reads, “Nothing basic about it: real pumpkin puree, fresh grated nutmeg, China cassia cinnamon, clove, and vanilla bean. 100% handmade.” This ad is indicative of the quality of all goods purchased from the team of dedicated bakers and baristas. On my latest visit, a barista sold me on the house chai after explaining that their homemade concentrate gets made in the wee hours of the morning, involving spices simmering for upwards of 5 hours. The tantalizing treats in the pastry case are freshly baked in their incubator kitchen, located below the coffeehouse. Oh, and they roast their own coffee, too.

There’s something for everyone on the menu as the baked goods area is stocked with an assortment of muffins, coffee cakes, hand pies, frittatas, quiches, and cheesecakes. They do a great job of providing gluten-free and vegan options, and the savory snacks always include a vegetarian option. They even serve a vegan curry chickpea salad with crackers!

Vegan chickpea salad is one example of the plant-based options at Maeva’s Coffee

I can personally vouch for the deliciousness of the plant-based chocolate chip banana muffins. The tender crumb and rich, buttery flavor would have fooled me if I hadn’t seen “vegan & gluten-free” written next to it. Also, I think I raved to at least 10 people about the cinnamon roll cheesecake the day I tried it. With ribbons of cinnamon meandering through the dense, cream-cheesey base, and a generous piping of cream cheese frosting on top, it was one of the most delicious and decadent cheesecakes I’ve ever had. For $3.50 per giant slice, I’d choose this homemade creation over the cheesecake factory any day!

Cinnamon Roll Cheesecake from Maeva’s Coffee

For being hidden in a tiny room in an off-the-beaten-path schoolhouse in Alton, Illinois, few would expect the level of quality dished up at Maeva’s Coffee. Such explains its cult following: once you become acquainted, it’s hard not to become a loyal patron. So the next time you’re in the mood for a cup of Joe or snack, give Maeva’s a try. Make sure to clear your schedule though because you may find yourself still in the cozy space, hours later, wondering where the time has gone!

House Chai & Vegan/GF chocolate chip banana muffin

“Old Bakery Beer” Slings Out Delicious, Plant-Forward Food

Shane Witters Hicks | Program Officer
Principia Center for Sustainability | Feb 13, 2023

Picture this: you’re a student at Principia College craving satisfying vegetarian food.

You’re a little weary of tofu & rice bowls, salads, pasta, beans, and the Beyond burger from the pub. You want a change of pace. You want some excitement. You want something new and fresh. But living in rural Illinois (once a veritable plant-based-food desert) presents challenges. Previous Prin alums might suggest you just suck it up and make a hummus & cucumber sandwich, or drive to Panera for the limited meatless selection. But fortunately for you, this is 2023 – and you have options!

One of the best nearby restaurants is the Old Bakery Beer Company, conveniently located next to the Mississippi River along Landmarks Blvd (just before Taco Bell & McDonalds). While a certified-organic craft brewery might seem like an odd choice for the average Prin student, there’s a lot more to their menu than you might expect. With a varied selection featuring American classics, hearty bar food, snacks, comforting favorites (think sandwiches, soups, salads, and local sodas), and a surprising range of vegetarian and vegan options, you and your friends are sure to find just the dish that will satisfy your cravings.

Old Bakery Beer was erected in the historic Colonial Bakery building in 2015. Co-founders Lauren Pattan and Murray Rogalsky strove to preserve the integrity of this iconic building while keeping things modern. Their efforts are reflected in the rustic-yet-comfy interior design. Bright, newly painted walls stand alongside faded brick. Old black-and-white pictures are interspersed with verdant plant life and tasteful decorations. Concrete beams and metal pipes loom over eaters in a warmly lit dining area full of modern furniture.

The company is fully committed to sustainability, as demonstrated by its 5-star accreditation with the Green Dining Alliance. Numerous examples of the company’s passion for sustainability can be found here. Among them, I thought a neat example was that a local St. Louis furniture maker crafted their tables and bar using reclaimed wood and processes with low ecological impact. The impressive, long bar stands between guests and smiling staff who are eager to take orders.

Wanting to try a smattering of the plant-based offerings, I started off with the Crispy Spring Rolls and Jerk Cauliflower Bites (both labeled as “Snacks” on the menu). For mains, I went with the Buffalo Chickpea Sandwich and Falafel Burger. These both came with sides, so I got the fries and baked beans (the beans aren’t vegan, which I later found out).

The spring rolls were crispy upon arrival but like any fried food, they got soggy after their short stint in the to-go container. So eat these on-site! Stuffed to the brim with kimchi and rice noodles, and served with a Thai peanut sauce, the flavor was nothing short of delightful. I wish either the sauce or the kimchi had more of a spicy kick, but other than that I was very pleased with these.

The hearty Jerk Cauliflower Bites had a nice, robust breading. (But something about the flavor of the breading seemed a bit bitter to me.) The pineapple-y dipping sauce was heavenly. Sweet and tangy – if they served it as a drink I would down it by the glassful!

The Buffalo Chickpea Sandwich, despite being very simple, had great flavor. I expected the “chickpea fritter” to be the same as the patty in the falafel burger, but it was less green and fried-looking, and more the shape of a burger patty. The four components – chickpea fritter, buffalo sauce, ranch dressing, and buns – work well together and make for a satisfying, humble sandwich. The online menu doesn’t provide the option to include additional toppings, which I think would help elevate the sandwich for more adventurous eaters.

Well-seasoned, ultra-crisp exterior, and fluffy-tender interior describe the thick, steak-style fries. They are potato perfection and will be my go-to side order next time (and the next, and the next…).

The Falafel Burger is exactly what the name suggests. It’s basically a large, crispy falafel patty with buns and fresh toppings. The included cucumber slices and chipotle tahini sauce add crunch and earthy depth to the experience. Unlike the Buffalo Chickpea Sandwich, you’re given the option to add several free additional toppings (lettuce, tomato, pickles, onion). Vegans and vegetarians beware: the baked beans side dish – while well-seasoned – has small pieces of bacon nestled within (this is mentioned when you order online, but not in the main menu). Plenty of other sides are vegan, including fries, chips, greens, and house salad.

Check out their menu here for lots of other vegan, vegetarian (labeled V+ and V, respectively) and omnivorous options. Head to the restaurant when your favorite special is being served, like Sunday ramen (vegan ramen is available), Thursday pizza (a fully vegan cheese pizza is an option), or discounted happy hour items Monday-Wednesday from 3-6pm.

Whether you’re stopping in for a light snack or a sumptuous meal, the Old Bakery Beer Company is sure to meet and often exceed culinary expectations. With a unique ambiance to boot, the fun and inviting vintage-modern décor is great for social dining, so bring a friend (or three!). Order online ahead of time – or don’t, and simply enjoy the casual vibes while you wait and meet new people in this renowned institution of Illinois culture.

What Does It Means To Eat Sustainably?

Shane Witters Hicks | Program Officer
Principia Center for Sustainability | Feb 6, 2023

Cauliflower steak with roasted tempeh and baby corn

In an age where “sustainable” is a word used to describe an increasingly diverse group of foods, it can be hard for people to decide what to eat to get the best eco-bang for their buck. And with such an expansive culinary scene – where diners can devour a plant-based burger, slurp a post-workout cricket-protein shake, and enjoy a regenerative mycelium “steak” all in one day, yet still be told off by foodie friends for drinking that resource-intensive almond milk – one can hardly be blamed for wondering, “what the heck is a ‘sustainable’ food, anyway?”

One of the points of confusion is the fact that “sustainability” is an unregulated and multi-disciplinary term. There’s no legal definition of sustainable food, but a working definition developed by the Alliance for Better Food and Farming describes it as food that is produced, processed, distributed and disposed of in ways that:

Contribute to thriving local economies and sustainable livelihoods, including in producer countries;
Protect the diversity of both plants and animals and the welfare of farmed and wild species;
Avoid damaging or wasting natural resources or contributing to climate change; and
Provide social benefits, such as good quality food, safe and healthy products, and educational opportunities.

Let’s break that down: an example of the first point could be coffee beans that are sourced from farms using fair labor practices. Peet’s Coffee, for example, is a “100% responsibly sourced” roaster and retailer after a years-long road to improve its sustainability metrics (which included more than 20,000 annual sustainability audits). It’s because of companies like this that farmers using honest labor practices are able to grow and boost their local economies by providing fair wages to workers.

An example of the second point might be buying seafood raised in closed-loop farms, whose populations are carefully monitored and maintained. For example, a Sacramento sturgeon farm simultaneously produces outstanding caviar and uses the waste to grow butter lettuce. In contrast, wild-caught bluefin tuna and other endangered species of fish are being brought to the edge of extinction through overfishing despite international regulations.

When we consider the “damaging or wasting [of] natural resources” (in this case the rainforest) it’s impossible to overlook the effects of palm oil plantations. Production of palm oil on drainage-based peat swamp in Southeast Asia accounts for between 0.44% and 0.74% of global greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, according to one study. Choosing a “more sustainable” cooking oil isn’t a clear-cut decision because global demand for these oils is staggering. But data suggests that rapeseed oil (more widely known as canola oil) is a better option than most because it results in the least GHG emissions per liter.

Finally, by purchasing from companies that prioritize social welfare and/or put profits towards charitable and educational causes, we contribute to sustainable communities by “voting” with our dollars. One such company is Dave’s Killer Bread, which created a Second Chance Project and claims a third of its workforce are ex-convicts. Similarly, Greyston Bakery – through its unique, no-resume-required Open Hiring policy – provides employment opportunities to those who have experienced barriers to employment. By purchasing organic produce (especially items from the Environmental Working Group’s “dirty dozen” list), shoppers can reduce health hazards and support farming free of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.

Is it practical to only source foods that meet all four criteria of a sustainable food? Maybe not. Is it cheap to only eat organic, locally sourced foods from companies that pay fair wages? Probably not. But perhaps it isn’t too large of an ask for the average consumer to hit one criteria at a time. Small steps lead to big changes. Steps like incorporating a “meatless Monday” into your week, buying a Marine Stewardship Council-certified tilapia instead of the cheapest variety once in a while, or choosing free-range eggs rather than those produced in cage-ridden factory farms. Choices like these not only demonstrate to suppliers that we care about what we eat – they directly reduce environmental degradation and suffering on a global level.

Pastina in Brodo with cherry tomatoes, zucchini, and basil

Keep it simple. Everyone could benefit from following the practical advice given by journalist and author Michael Pollen, who says, “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” There are few “silver bullet” solutions in life, but incorporating more plants into your diet may be one of them. Animal agriculture is responsible for a huge portion of GHG emissions. A more plant-forward diet has been shown to improve health, sometimes curing chronic diseases like diabetes. And have you ever seen headlines whistleblowing the fact that billions of animals are kept in inhospitable conditions to sustain the consumption of meat, dairy, and eggs? Eating more plants can fix that, too. Indeed, changing global eating habits can simultaneously right several wrongs, so if you can only focus on one thing, eat more plants!