Shane Witters Hicks | Program Officer
Principia Center for Sustainability | March 21, 2023
“Eat Real Food” – the motto of The Wolf Cafe is concise, comprehensive, and clearly describes the tight operation at this unassuming yet impressive eatery. Although “real food” might be defined differently by different people, most would agree that it includes criteria like minimally processed ingredients, cooked from scratch, non-GMO, organic, humanely treated, locally sourced, etc.
The Wolf Cafe delivers on all fronts by serving up deliciously handcrafted meals and bites with just about as good a program for sourcing locally as one could hope for. Eggs come from local cage-free hens, bread and baked treats are from St. Louis-based Companion and Sugaree Bakeries, coffee is from Ballwin-based Birdsong Coffee Co., and all meats come from humanely treated, vegetarian-fed, hormone-free, and locally sourced (where possible) animals.
Furthermore, The Wolf’s team has a keen eye for sustainable disposal by using packaging that’s “compostable, recyclable and made from as close to 100% post-consumer waste whenever possible” (more on their sourcing and sustainability here). In fact, you won’t find a single trash can in the entire building!
If that isn’t impressive enough, we haven’t even started on the food. I mean, come on, the food! This cafe is far from basic and serves much more than coffee and pastries. The extensive menu is divided into categories like coffee, soups & salads, starters, burgers & sandwiches, desserts, and a bonafide breakfast menu. They even have a kid’s menu and retail/pantry items!
If it’s vegetarian or vegan food you’re aiming for, look no further, as there are 18 food items on the dinner menu that are meat-free. And the plant-forward options aren’t just the vegetarian “cop-outs” that you’ll find at many restaurants. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good Beyond Burger, but sometimes I yearn for something a little more creative. And creativity is what I love about The Wolf Cafe’s plant-forward items, which range from the Portobello Reuben, to the Vegan Gumbo, to the Chickpea Sandwich, to the hearty 3-Bean Chipotle Chili, to name a few. Many of the non-veg items (like burgers) have the option to swap in vegetarian proteins, and you can click “Make Vegan” on the online menu as a worry-free option to try most items without animal products.
There are a few standout dishes worth reviewing here. To start, the Avocado Salad contains a delightful assortment of smashed avocado, pepitas, crispy chili chickpeas, pickled veggies, and an amazingly tangy honey-lime dressing. In fact, all of the dressings and sauces I tried from The Wolf Cafe fall into the “jaw-drop” category. It’s really heartwarming to find a small establishment with a culinary team that clearly puts a lot of thought and effort into little details like this.
One of the starters I ordered impressed me for its elevated take on what’s often a boring classic: the Hummus Plate. The Wolf’s hummus is infused with horseradish for a subtle kick and topped with “olive relish”, which brings a welcome briny bite. The three generous scoops of hummus are accompanied by a variety of crisp veggies and lavash crackers, so you have no lack of dipping opportunities. Next time, I’d like to try the Balsamic Chips made with local Billy Goat potato chips and melty gouda cheese.
I’m a sucker for Patty Melts, so I had to try The Wolf’s rendition of this American classic. Notable features about this cafe’s version are that it’s served burger-style with buns and includes the option to add fun toppings like kimchi (which I happily opted for). The usual inclusions of caramelized onions, cheese, and Russian dressing make this burger an instant go-to item on this menu. Other great choices on the burger menu are the Beyond Burger and the creative Dill-Bert Burger (which includes dill havarti cheese, bacon, avocado, and dill pickles).
One of the benchmarks I look for in any eatery advertising itself as plant-forward is the chickpea salad. If they can get such a simple vegan menu item right (well-seasoned with appropriate spices, good consistency with partially smashed and partially intact chickpeas, crisp veggies, etc.), I have high hopes that the kitchen is detail-oriented enough to produce a variety of other successful menu items. The Chickpea Sandwich ticks all the boxes for me – and then some. The chickpea salad is perfectly seasoned and well-textured, and the inclusion of pickled veggies, sprouts, avocado, tomato, and spinach on multi-grain bread elevates this sandwich to something that anyone – not just the vegans – will love. Other great sandwich options are the “Black Bear” black bean burger, Salmon BLT (with wild-caught salmon), and the Stang BBQ Chicken (with prairie-raised chicken on a pretzel bun).
There are far too many enticing goodies in the baked goods window to choose just one or two, but the Betterfinger Bar (vegan & gluten-free) is a phenomenal option. It’s sort of like if a Clif Bar met a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup and had a baby that contained crunchy rice bits and sprinkles. It’s compact, rich, nutty, and chocolaty with an addicting crunch to boot. Some other baked treats worth trying are the peanut butter pie and carrot cake made locally by Sugaree Bakery, or the vegan chia bar and granola bar.
As I washed my meal down with a Companion Kombucha (also a local St. Louis company), I reflected on the overall experience. I’ve been to The Wolf Cafe before for takeout and enjoyed the food, but this was the first time I’d sat down to really appreciate the artistic selection/design of the interior, the attitude of the employees, and the overall ambiance. I’m guessing people (like me) are drawn in by hearsay of the clean, eclectic, and alluring menu, and then they become lifelong customers after experiencing the friendly service and cozy ambiance.
It seemed almost too good to be true to have a successful eatery in my neighborhood that focuses on clean, local food, and community. (I usually have to drive into downtown St. Louis for this kind of experience, thereby facing the inevitable traffic and parking difficulties.) Even though many of the restaurants in the surrounding area have meat-heavy menus and prioritize profits over anything else, The Wolf Cafe’s success is no mystery to me: it just feels good to support a business with an incredible ethos and commitment to sustainability!
