Friday night Ljubljana style

They say that the Earth, without “art” is just “eh.” Having just left the beautiful mountains around Lake Bled full of natural beauty, we find ourselves back in the city. What might be just another Friday night in Ljubljana comes alive with performance art. Music dominates the small city streets, causing a cluster of people to gather. Despite no cars being allowed in the old part of the city, the number of people out enjoying the beautiful June evening combined with the array of musicians causes traffic all the same. Not traffic like the 405 in Los Angeles, but rather some you don’t mind getting caught in.

Café tables are full of diners at 8pm with people just starting their main courses as the sun hasn’t begun to yet set. The tables fill the cobblestone streets as usual, but now people, their belongings, and their dogs fill in the entire scene. All the while the locals on their bicycles weave professionally through the walkers, the millers, the restaurant and shop patrons, and they do so with deft skill and seeming ease.

From our gelato bar perch, this particular Friday night included a view of repurposed car seats that had been turned into a portable version of outdoor theater seating. A make-shift stage popped right up in front of a restaurant. The singer sang in English with a man accompanying her playing a marimba (like a wood xylophone). With the jazz/blues sound I heard in their performance, I could only marvel at their talent.

Walk a ways further and on the main street leading off of the Three Bridges to find a six-person band with three horns, a guitar, a singer, and a washboard (personal fave!) entertain the passers-by. Not your usual buskers for sure, but they pulled together quite the showing! Her voice was awesome, but in combination with the instruments of choice, it was just so pleasing to the ear.

After crossing the bridge and entering into the famous Prešeren Square, the usual accordion man was there. Such a traditional sound here, it still makes me smile and impresses me to the core. Having tried my hand at it for about five minutes two weeks ago, it made patting my head and rubbing my belly seem like child’s play. Two hands acting in complete independence with one’s arms also doing their own thing… How does the brain manage?! Plus he finds the time to smile! 

However, the best art I had the honor to witness this evening was the live reading of the compilation of our students’ sonnets. Having been studying world literature, especially focusing on Slovenian literature, they were tasked with following in Peršeren’s footsteps and turning their sonnets into a wreath. On stage and in public, these amateur poets shared their sonnets. In order to form a wreath, the last line of each sonnet has to then be the first line of the next sonnet. This requires a beautiful use of the English language to describe an idea that is a conclusion for one thought while simultaneously serving as a leaping off point for the next. The final sonnet also follows suit using the first line from the initial sonnet as its conclusion. This truly creates a circle, also known as a “heroic crown,” thus allowing a reader to theoretically start at any point. The first time I heard it, I cried. Literally. They were amazing. And tonight was even better. Maturity, grace, poise, intelligence and strength as the Principia students demonstrated their love for their new home, overflowing. 

There’s always a piece of art somewhere. Here in Slovenia it seems to simply be the way. And what a beautiful night as a result. Especially when dinner is gelato.  🙂

~gervais

 

Nicole Gervais is serving as RCE on the abroad. She is a 2001 Principia College graduate and a soccer coach in the Athletic Department. She loves to learn new things, meet new people, see good photography, and laugh.

Classes in all shapes and sizes!

It’s absolutely awesome how learning happens. For me, I learn best in small groups, and even better when I’m out of a traditional classroom. Here I don’t officially fall under the category of “student,” but it has been amazing to watch our abroaders learn while also continuing to learn myself. We talk about what it means to be a “global citizen,” and it would seem to me that one of the best ways to embody that would be to constantly be growing, learning, striving for more. Our classrooms here in Slovenia change by the day while the topics cover (but are definitely not limited to!) the Slovene language, world literature, culture and history of the area (huge topic!), and even salsa dancing.

For me, attempting to learn the Slovene language is like trying to learn how to drive an 18-wheeler having never even ridden a bike. Having said that, our language class has been at the top of my list of favorite activities. Our teachers are incredible and, somehow, as if through magic, I’m actually learning! My little class of five with Anja as our teacher impresses me every time we meet.

The classroom with the Slovenian and Croatian professors and foreign students of the same age adds a different element. The lights are off and windows are open as the A/C does not seem to be used much in university classrooms. The local students seem as trepidatious and unsure of us as our students are of them–yet when grouped together, the talking becomes deafening with sharing of thoughts, ideas, similarities, and laughter. A true joy emanates from the professors when they see the human connection being made.

The Slovene Writers’ Association provided an small peek into what their group is about as well as the world of translation as a whole but also into the niche world of Slovene translation. With references to translation of TV shows, Harry Potter, John Grisham and, of all challenges, Dr. Seuss, we ventured off to get a better look for ourselves at the biggest book store in Ljubljana. What we all could agree on was how wonderful it would be to be able to speak another language so completely.

Back in the comforts of a hotel room, a café, or a park with just us, we hold small-sided discussions and debrief about articles/short stories and/or places and people we’ve seen. Talking about appreciating what we’re doing, who we’re talking to, and journaling about it all will aid in ensuring that it sticks with us long past our return to the States.

The culture and history element has been by far my favorite. Bundling up for a cold cave, putting on a bathing suit to test out the Adriatic Sea, envisioning storming castles and standing atop Roman ruins seem to be the favorite way to learn. Our guides have even included actors dressing up as characters to explain stories or important points. Sometimes their English has been good enough to make American cultural references to further explain something. With the city and personal interactions as our greatest teachers of all, it has been a delight to watch the students become more and more comfortable with being uncomfortable and with that, become truly comfortable. Buying cherries at the Saturday morning market and figuring out the milk dispenser in Ljubljana, having to speak with people in Croatia who don’t speak any English (while we speak no Croatian), or simply trying new foods without hesitation, these all add to the wonderfulness that traveling has to offer.

Just look at these faces of enthusiasm!

Experiential learning provides the intangibles that a classroom simply talks about. It is the picture to the words. And to watch as the students experience these firsts is like nothing else. I’m so grateful to be continuing my own education while also witnessing theirs.

Follow their example: step outside to learn.

~gervais

The little things

Today was a real day. A day where I walked by myself instead of in a pack, got lost, people watched, saw things, and did less touristy activities. 

 

It’s totally normal to buy a litre of milk stocked fresh in the morning. Drinking it between two people as they walk through a farmer’s market in a matter of 15 minutes might be a little less normal. Sophia and I bought a jar from a vending machine and watched the clear bottle fill with the heavenly, silky milk. Why there weren’t lines for it, I do not know. But daily fresh milk that is cold and so smooth? I can promise you, we’ll be back!

 

The venture down a few stairs into the fresh cheese, meat, and other dairies was also a delight. I lingered too long in front of one cheese case because no one was there so I figured I could look without pressure. Instead, a woman slid in seamlessly saying dobro jutro, good morning, in Slovene and then proceeded to offer us a taste in English. A lover of cottage cheese back home, I must apologize but I am not a fan of it here. Perhaps the fresh milk that still clung to my tastebuds rendered any other dairy taste helpless. She allowed us to try “young cheese” as she called it followed by a deliciously salty “older cheese.” She laughed with us when we asked her to repeat the name “older cheese” as it seemed a somewhat insufficient name for a cheese. Sophia and I agreed we would be back next week for some of that, providing we could find it. 

 

Later on after I went to the post office to exchange some money for the group (and had to write the amount needed down for the teller because numbers are hard), I decided to pop into the bookstore across the street. People had said Ljubljana is a small city, but I had envisioned (dare I say hoped?) it would be closer to Celje’s size. However, as I approached the glass doors, one of the few people I know outside our group, a university student we had met Thursday, happened to be walking out. Small it had suddenly become; a chance encounter that simply delighted me in making me feel at home. A few minutes of talking like old friends and we were both on our way again. 

 

And finally, of course, the whole challenge of walking in a pack is that the only dog whose view changes is the lead dog. This can lead to not 100% remembering where you’re going if you’re always bringing up the rear. Fortunately, despite not having seen many policemen previously, when I officially wasn’t sure where to go, I stumbled upon a car of three of them. They motioned haphazardly behind them and told me in Slovene where to go. I’m so grateful for the timing of our meeting or I may still be out wandering trying to find the group again…

 

Until next time…

~gervais

 

Gervais is serving as RCE on the abroad. She is a 2001 Principia College graduate and a soccer coach in the Athletic Department.  She loves to learn new things, meet new people, see good photography, and laugh.

We’re here!

After airport hopping from St. Louis to Washington Dulles, and an international flight to Zurich, Switzerland, our deset (ten) travelers made a final connection to Ljubljana, the capital city of Slovenia.

The 30-minute drive from the airport to our hotel was nothing short of surreal. After months of soaking up cultural facts and historical context, we were finally looking out across the lush fields and quaint buildings of Slovenia.

Program director Ellen Sprague offers some orientation in the Old Town.

As we oriented ourselves to the city, I began to realize just how unfamiliar I was to the sights, smells, and sounds of this small, Central European country. First, everything is quieter! No matter where we went, people kept to themselves, speaking in soft tones and an even-keeled timbre. The architecture isn’t neatly planned like the U.S. cities I’m familiar with. The cobblestone streets abruptly give way to cleanly paved roads, while old-fashioned, run-down buildings stand aside new-age, modern structures. The smell of rich coffee mixed with chocolate and a heavenly concoction of herbs and spices wafts through the streets. It is all so enchantingly new, a freshness that brings a sense of wonder to the eyes of our little group.

More than any of these things, however, the distinct nature of the Slovene language brings a new feeling of disorientation. My previous

Good thing we learned that this Slovenian word tells us where to find dessert (gelato and other goodies)!

travel experiences occurred in countries with Romance languages, meaning I could at least make out a few words here and there. Slovene, a Slavic language, is an enigma in and of itself. Unlike any language I’ve experienced, it has left me unable to reason through pronunciations or grammatical structures. Overhearing conversations while walking the city has left me feeling vulnerable, like a small child too new to the world to attach garbled sounds to anything of substance. Until today it hadn’t occurred to me how comforting it is to see words on the street and understand their meaning!

It is a delightful challenge to explore the city while learning to find comfort in being uncomfortable. The language adventures continue with our first language class tomorrow!

From a country whose borders stretch beyond the physical,

Brooke

 

Brooke Engel is a sophomore at Principia double majoring in studio art and creative writing, with a minor in mass communication. Her Slovenian cultural research centered on Mt. Triglav National Park and Slovenes’ general love for the outdoors.