The Croatian coast…and a book!

Our group awoke this morning and waved a nostalgic goodbye to Zadar, particularly the cute and sleepy old town, which is a peninsula on Croatia’s coast. It didn’t take us long to embrace our new destination: the quaint island of Rab. Although from our approach in the ferry it looked like a deserted, dry landmass surrounded by deep blue and clear waters, it’s actually a popular tourist destination that’s rich with history.

A walking tour lead by our guide, Minka, educated us about this Croatian paradise. Much of the architecture preserved in Rab today is from the late Middle Ages or later (1400s). It became a part of the Venetian State in 1409 and served as a main port. In medieval times, Rab Town’s population was around 8,000, a contrast to today’s little over 2,000. Later, Rab was part of the Austro-Hungarian Embpire, and many of its inhabitants actually left for Italy when Yugoslavia was awarded the island in 1921. 

An incredible fun fact about the city of Rab: there are three main streets followed by twelve minor streets. The twelve streets stand for the twelve months of the year; furthermore, each street has 365 cobblestones to signify the 365 days in a year! Talk about a master city planner.

The United States actually has a connection to the island. American actress Wallis Simpson married English King Edward VIII and visited the island in 1936. Due to his choice to marry a commoner, he had to abdicate the throne. But there remains a plaque on Rab to honor their famous visit.

Regarding the touristy aspect of the island, we found that its delicious restaurants and beautiful waterfront are phenomenal. Our group had a particularly bonding moment on the beach in the early afternoon. We made our way down to the water. After a little sunbathing and cautiously dipping our toes into the tide, several members of our group decided it was time for a swim. Upon wading knee-deep, however, we found plunging in was much more easier said than done. Minka had warned us: the Adriatic does not heat up in the summer at the same rate as the air. The height of the bathing season is in July. You can imagine it’s pretty frigid now, in late May.

We managed to brace ourselves and and enjoy the refreshingly crisp ocean. A pair of goggles enabled us to examine the sea life below, including fish, mussels, and sea urchins. Then we all lay out on a dock, much like a group of sunning seals. 

Rab holds a special place in many of our hearts, not only because of its beauty, but as a setting of a novel we read during the spring semester. A Castle in Romagna by Igor Štiks (translated by Tomislav Kuzmanović and Russell Scott Valentino) tells the story of a boy growing up on the island. His father was Italian and Tito’s break with Stalin in in 1948 meant the Italian families were no longer welcome. Ironically, the main character falls for the daughter of the new police chief in Rab. In the end, (spoiler alert), when the couple cannot be together, the daughter throws herself from the tallest and most beautiful tower of Rab to her death. It was a morbid but interesting connection to see that very tower when we visited the island. 

Although we were sad to leave the next morning, we are grateful to be blessed by Rab’s beauty and history. Back to our home base of Ljubljana!

~Mesa

Mesa Goebel is a global studies major with a focus in peace and conflict. She studied the Kurent Festival, a lively celebration of fertility and the coming of spring with mythological roots. She loves nature, outdoor recreation, and traveling!

 

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